Yesterday I went on a “Make a Dress in a Day” course with the Fashion Box, based up near Seven Sisters. A few people have seemed surprised that I took myself on a course aimed at beginners; my reasons for doing it were that I’ve never made a full dress from scratch, I’ve never used a commercial pattern, I thought I’d learn some new techniques and, if I’m honest, it sounded fun.
The pattern pieces were made from very thin tissue paper, and covered in various markings to show the different sizes, lengths and fitting marks for each one. Fortunately, the pieces had been precut for us, with all the markings transferred from the tissue-paper pattern to the fabric pieces, meaning we could get on with the sewing, rather than getting covered in tailor’s chalk.
There were two bust darts, one on either side of the front piece – these had to be pinned and sewn identically, as it would be really obvious if they were uneven.
Then two back darts that also had to be symmetrical.
A dart is a method of curving fabric so that the 2D material fits around a 3D body. On the outside they look like lines and on the inside there will be a triangle of spare fabric.
Next, I got to use what is possibly my favourite machine in the world – the overlocker. This has four reels of thread that combine with a cutting knife to slice your fabric in a really neat line and bind the raw edge, to prevent fraying. I love this machine and would really like one for myself...
The fabric goes in rough and straggly, but comes out neatly overlocked!
Next step was to put in an invisible zip down the back. I learned that there is a special sewing machine foot you can use for putting in invisible zips that helps keep everything lined up – this made it so much easier! And explains why I had so much trouble trying to do it with a normal zipper foot.
Putting in a zip can cause the fabric to pucker, as the sewing machine tries to pull the fabric through at a different speed to the zip.
Fortunately a bit of ironing helps relieve the problem!
Next step was to sew the bottom part of the back seam and get it to join up flawlessly with the bottom of the zip. I’d say I did a pretty good job – it’s hard to tell where the zip starts!
For the neckline, we used a facing combined with iron-on interfacing to strengthen the material. I used this interfacing previously when I made a tie.
Next the curved seams at the armholes and neckline had to be pinned and sewn. (Fortunately there was no tacking involved, phew.)
Sewing the side seam brought the two pieces of the dress together as one, and then I learned the handy trick of putting in the straps, which involved some simple flipping the straps, inserting into the back, sewing, turning out and voilà… In all honesty I’m not sure how this bit worked (witchcraft?) but it really did!
Then, time for some pressing and a bit more overlocking…
Finally came the hem – now there are two ways to do a hem. One involves using neat straight stitch, and I’ve done this a bunch of times. Examples are on my many curtain-related posts. But there is a stitch on my machine specifically for sewing invisible hems… **mysterious** I know, but I thought I would give it a go.
And here is the finished hem, on the outside! Pretty darn good, I’d say, and certainly something I’ll use again.
So here is the finished dress!
I’d just like to take an additional moment to note how the back facings are perfectly aligned with each other… This is not a part of the dress you’ll see usually, but it melts my heart just a little bit that they are so even. Cos I’m both a perfectionist AND a loser.
Unfortunately the dress does not currently fit me very well… Watch this space for when it makes a reappearance as an “Amend” in the New Year!
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